8
Never use any chemicals in
streams or ponds that connect
to or overflow into estuaries.
Create a Bog
While they don’t get the
amount of public attention that
ponds do, many naturalists
prefer to create bogs in their
habitat.
These provide water and
support a range of wildlife and
plants, yet don’t have the
safety concerns of electricity or
deep water, and don’t require
the more intensive commitment
of time and money for
construction.
They can also do well in partial
shade, and don’t have as many
problems with tree roots. As
before, start with a depression
about 18 in. deep.
If the bog area is large
enough, create some mounds
to accommodate acid-loving
shrubs like blueberries and
pussy willows which appreciate
constant moisture but don’t
like to live in standing water.
Add a liner if your soil
doesn’t naturally retain
moisture, but this time poke
some small holes in the liner
and fill the depression with a
mixture of sand, humus, some
soil and water.
The formula recommended by
Ken Druse in
The Natural
Garden
is “three parts acidic
humus, such as peat moss or
oak leaves, to two parts sand,
to one part loam – good
topsoil
.
"
Placing a soaker hose (one
with tiny perforations along
its length) at the bottom of
the bog, with one end sealed
and the connecting end
sticking out enough to be
accessible, will let you add
water as needed without
disturbing the surface.
Some people also choose to
create bog areas around a
more traditional pond, thus
accommodating any overflow
from heavy rain, while at the
same time creating another
distinct habitat environment.
If you live in an area with cold
winters, mulch bog plants well.
The additional moisture in the
soil can cause severe “frost
heaves" which may kill your
perennials if they aren’t
protected.
If you already have wet areas
on your property, enhance
them rather than try to
overcome them. Drainage
ditches can be deepened and
lined (if necessary) and then
planted to become lovely
stream features.
Low-lying ground that never
seems to dry out can become
a valuable bog or wetland
area. If you can locate the
source of the water – possibly
an underground spring – then
you can center a pond there,
and surround it with a bog
garden.
The constant moisture will
allow you to plant flowers that
wouldn’t grow well under normal
garden conditions. Some
thoughtful landscaping can
turn what seemed like a
negative feature into the focal
point of your yard.
Attracting Wildlife
Toads and frogs will be happy
if the sides of your pond slope
gently and are covered with
pebbles. Avoid purchasing
tadpoles, since they usually
end up being bullfrogs which will
displace smaller, native frogs.
Many amphibians appreciate
protection in the form of
bushes, lily leaves, rock piles, or
an upside-down flowerpot with
a broken-out “doorway."
Branches which overhang the
pond allow tree frogs to lay
eggs and have them drop right
into the water.
– The Rock and Water Garden Expert
Dr. D. G. Hessayon
STEP 2:
MAKE DRAINAGE HOLES
One 1/2 in. hole every 3 ft.
is necessary
STEP 3:
ADD GRIT LAYER
Place 2 in. layer of lime-free
grit or gravel at the base
STEP 5:
ADD STONE EDGING
Place pebbles along
either side of the bog
garden to hide liner
STEP 6:
COMPLETE THE GARDEN
Rake 2 oz. Growmore or
balanced organic fertilizer
per sq. yd. into surface
STEP 4:
ADD COMPOST LAYER
Compost mix of 3 parts
topsoil, 3 parts peat and
1 part lime-free grit
STEP 1:
LAY THE LINER
Use butyl sheeting – place under
the flexible or rigid pond liner
and on top of 2 in. sand layer
Bog Garden
