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require optics that are
impervious to weather.
Backpackers want optics that
are light and portable.
But birders demand all these
attributes and more. For
binoculars to be birder worthy,
they must not only be durable
and precise, but also
weatherproof and portable.
They must focus fast and focus
close. They must offer a
generous field of view and
provide exceptional depth of
field even at close quarters.
This article has one objective:
to give you the information you
need to choose true birder
worthy binoculars and spotting
scopes.
Forewarned is Forearmed
There are several things you
should know even before talking
to a salesperson.
FIRST – As a bird watcher,
you represent the largest “user
group" in the optics market.
Over 30 percent of all
binoculars purchased are used
for birding.
SECOND – The needs and
constraints of birding are well
known to binocular
manufacturers, but they might
not be known to the sales
person you deal with.
Chances are, after reading
this article, you will know much
more about birding binoculars
than any non-birding
salesperson you will meet. Don’t
let them confuse you.
THIRD – All equipment,
including binoculars, is designed
to compensate for a human
short-coming. People should
never be forced to compensate
for their equipment.
If the binocular you are
considering is flawed in
performance or design (i.e.,
they do not focus close
enough…they do not fit your
hands…the ocular lenses
cannot be adjusted close
enough to offer a single
image…) do not buy them! If
you do buy them, you will only
replace them later.
FOURTH – There are very
cheap binoculars and very
expensive binoculars. There are
binoculars that are good for
birding, and binoculars that are
not good for birding.
There are no good cheap
birding binoculars. It takes
quality materials and
sophisticated engineering to
craft birder worthy binoculars.
Expect to pay a commensurate
price – three to four hundred
dollars at least.
What Are Binoculars.
Binoculars are twin barreled
telescopes whose barrels are
aligned to fall on the same
spot. They are superior to a
telescope insofar as they can
be used with both eyes open –
making long-term viewing easier.
Since binoculars are usually
hand held, they are also more
portable and faster to use than
telescopes.
Binoculars are divided into
two basic design classes:
s
Porro prism; and
s
Roof prism.
Porro prism or “traditional
binoculars" are wide-bodied. The
big lens in front (the objective
lenses) and the smaller one in
the back (the ocular lenses) are
offset – i.e., not aligned along a
vertical axis.
Roof prisms, which became
popular in the late ’60s and
’70s are longer and sleeker in
design, with the objective and
ocular lenses falling in
alignment along the same tube.
Both designs have
advantages and
disadvantages. Because Porro
prism binoculars have fewer
internal “elements" (lenses and
prisms) and more generous
tolerance specs, they are
generally brighter, less
expensive to manufacture, and
less expensive to repair in the
event of a mishap.
Roof prisms, though more
expensive, also tend to be more
rugged with elements more
firmly anchored within the
barrels. Many people also find
Roof prism binoculars easier to
hold steady for extended
periods.
Binocular Shape
The important thing about
binocular shape is how they feel
in your hands.
If you grasp a pair of
binoculars and bring them to
your eyes and your finger does
not fall comfortably upon the
focus wheel, or if you have to
shift your grip to move the
focus wheel, then the
binoculars are poorly designed
or too large for your hands.
Put them back on the shelf.
Likewise, if you bring the
binoculars up to your eyes but
find that you cannot draw the
eyepieces close enough to offer
a single image, put them back
on the shelf. The minimum
“interpupillary distance"
offered by some models is
simply not close enough to
accommodate people with
closely-set eyes.
