2
and make an appearance.
That’s all it takes. Once you
get started, it’s hard to stop.
Before you know it, you’re
learning bird names. After
awhile, you’ll start to
recognize individuals and the
messages in their behavior
and song.
When you get to the point
where you want to attract and
“keep" a particular species,
what you do will be determined
by where you live and the time
of year.
In the long run, a squirrel-
proof feeder or any feeder on a
pole with a baffle is the least
aggravating solution. The
most effective squirrel-proof
feeder is the pole-mounted
metal “hopper" type.
If you must hang a feeder,
select a tube protected with
metal mesh. Most plastic
“squirrel-proof" feeders,
despite manufacturers’
claims, may eventually
succumb to rodent teeth.
If you have the “right"
situation in your yard, a pole
with a baffle should suffice.
Any wood or plastic feeder can
be effective when mounted on
a pole with a plastic or metal
baffle, if the pole is at least 10
feet or more from a tree limb
or trunk.
Once you’ve determined
where you’re going to put your
feeder, you’re ready to go
shopping. In addition to good
looks, think about...
s
How durable is it.
s
Will it keep the seeds dry.
s
How easy is it to clean.
s
How much seed will it hold.
s
How many birds will it feed
at one time.
s
Which species will use it.
Durability
There seems to be no end to
the material used in making bird
feeders. You can buy
“disposable" plastic bag
feeders; feeders made of cloth,
nylon, vinyl, and metal netting;
clear, lexan, colored and PVC
plastic tubes; ceramic and
terra cotta; redwood, western
cedar, birch, pine, and plywood;
sheet metal and aluminized
steel; glass tubes and bottles.
How long a feeder lasts
depends on how much effort you
put into maintaining it, the
effects of weather, and whether
squirrels can get to it.
Dry Seeds
Water can get into any feeder
– regardless of how careful you
are to protect it. Seed will spoil
when it gets damp or wet. Cloth,
vinyl, nylon, and metal netting
feeders are inexpensive, but
they do not protect your seed.
You can improve them by adding
a plastic dome.
Most wood, plastic, ceramic,
and solid metal feeders will keep
seed dry, but water can get into
the feeding portals. Look for
feeders with drainage holes in
the bottoms of both the feeder
hopper and the seed tray.
Even bowl-type feeders and
trays with drainage holes will
clog with seed and bird
droppings. Add rainwater and
you have an unhealthy broth.
Look for shallow plate-like seed
trays. The purpose of a tray is
to catch dropped seeds while
allowing spent seed shells to
blow away.
Cleaning
Any zookeeper and cage bird
owner will tell you, when you feed
birds in a confined area, you
have to expect bird droppings,
feathers, an occasional insect
or two, and left-over food mess.
While you don’t have to wash
the feeder daily, you should
clean it regularly.
Diseases like salmonella can
grow in moldy, wet seed and bird
droppings in your feeder tray
and on the ground below. It’s a
good idea to move your feeders
(just a foot or so) each season
to give the ground underneath
time to assimilate the seed
debris and bird droppings.
Keeping your feeders clean
should not become a major
undertaking. The degree of
maintenance required is directly
related to the types of birds
you want to attract.
A thistle feeder for
goldfinches should be cleaned
about once a month depending
