There is a wealth of good
camera equipment on the
market, and any photography
store will be happy to advise
you on the best choices for
nature work.
Generally speaking, you
want a 35mm SLR (single
lens reflex) camera with a
through-the-lens metering
system. You should be able to
manually override any
automatic features, and it
should have a “hot shoe" for a
removable flash attachment.
A depth-of-field preview
button is a nice feature, as is
a cable release cord. If you are
restricted to an automatic
point-and-shoot camera, you
can still get lots of good
photos by using a variety of
techniques to get closer to
your subjects.
Type of film
Experiment with various
kinds of film and keep notes on
your results. Slide film requires
more exposure accuracy but is
better if you plan to show your
photos to a large group, or
want to submit them for
publication.
Prints are generally
preferable for enlargements or
to share with friends. Films are
given an ISO rating, which
reflects what is known as their
“speed." “Slow" films (under
100 ISO) require longer
exposures to get a picture,
while “fast" films (100, 200,
400 and up) can be exposed
for a shorter time with good
results.
Faster films are more
versatile in poor light, or when
high shutter speeds are needed
to freeze action, but slower
films have a smaller visible grain
in the finished product.
For really good photos, it isn’t
enough to get close to an
animal and have it in sharp
focus. Timing is also important.
Although we don’t often think
about it, light has color. During
the middle of the day it has a
strong blue cast, while light in
the early morning and late
afternoon is warmed with reds
and yellows. Photos taken in
this warmer light tend to be
more pleasing, and these are
also often the best times to
observe wildlife.
Many creatures are out
feeding in the earlier and later
hours, avoiding the hot sun of
midday. There tends to be less
wind, making sharp focus easier
to achieve, and the longer rays
of the sun create interesting
shadows.
If you must take pictures in
the middle of the day, take
advantage of slightly overcast
conditions, letting clouds
soften the harsh light. Dull
conditions can actually make
colors richer because of the
reduction in surface glare.
For nearby subjects, your
flash covered with a light yellow
filter can make it look like the
photo was taken in the early
morning.
Check the light
Direction of light is also an
important consideration. There
are three categories: direct
light, sidelight, and backlight.
Direct light refers to the rays
falling on the subject when the
sun is behind your shoulder.
It is useful if you are taking a
light-colored subject against a
dark background. A white
rabbit shot against green
pines in direct light will stand
out sharply. Taking a photo
when your subject is lit from
the side is often the most
flattering. The light is softer,
there are interesting shadows,
and the details of texture
become more obvious.
Backlight, with the sun’s
rays coming from behind the
subject, is the most dramatic,
showing the veins of a leaf or a
halo of fur on a fox. Avoid
unwanted splashes of light
(known as “lens flare") in your
pictures by shading the lens
with your hand. Consciously
experiment with different
directions of light and see
what works best for the
wildlife that interests you.
Never look directly at the sun,
even through the view finder,
since this could damage your
eyes.
Backgrounds
Keep backgrounds in mind
when taking a picture. Many
animals are able to blend with
their surroundings, and you will
be able to see them more
clearly if they are standing
against a contrasting
background. This might be a
wall, shaded vegetation, or
even the sky.
For small subjects, you
might be able to slip a coat or
other solid-colored object
behind them. Think about why
you are taking the picture and,
if your camera has adjustable
