gives you some extra time to
get in close.
Butterflies in particular are
at rest until their body warms
to flying temperature. If you
are very careful, you can catch
insects and put them in the
refrigerator for a
shor
t time,
then study or photograph
them as they warm up.
This won’t harm them, but be
sure not to damage fragile
wings or legs, and always return
the insects as quickly as
possible to the same place
where they were captured.
Using a flash can also freeze
movement, but you must be
close enough for the light from
the flash to overpower that of
the sun.
Getting close-up shots of
small creatures is a matter of
both technique and equipment.
Move in slowly, making sure that
your shadow doesn’t fall across
your subject.
Close-ups
If you have a camera with
interchangeable lenses, you
might want to invest in a set of
extension tubes or a macro
lens, both of which will allow you
to do close-ups.
Less expensive supplemental
“close-up" lenses screw onto
the front of your camera lens.
These are measured in
“diopters" (+1, +2, etc.) with
increased magnification as the
numbers increase.
If you have a simple point-
and-shoot camera, experiment
with taping a pocket magnifying
glass to the front of your lens.
Using a ruler, take several
shots at different distances,
keeping a record of your
attempts. When you get your
pictures back, decide which
distance gave the sharpest
focus and use that formula in
the future.
If you want to photograph
something that is relatively far
away, your best choice is a
telephoto lens which, like
binoculars, brings distant
objects closer.
If this isn’t an option, or if you
just want to view wildlife from a
closer perspective, you have to
work on techniques for
physically getting nearer to
your subject.
Learn to identify animal
tracks in mud and snow, and to
recognize their calls in order to
locate wildlife before you can
actually see it.
If you already know where to
expect an animal to appear,
wear dark clothing and get in
place early to wait in a
sheltered area. Sit quietly, since
most wildlife is wary of
movement. For scent-sensitive
creatures, such as deer, try to
position yourself downwind.
When trying to get a picture
of large birds on a windy day,
approach with the wind at your
back since they tend to take off
into the wind and will come
towards you.
A length of camouflage fabric
with circles cut out for your
eyes and the camera lens
makes an inexpensive portable
blind. Just throw it over
yourself, adding a chair or
tripod for additional
maneuverability while
underneath.
Cars are good
Don’t overlook your car as
an effective blind if the
location is suitable. Most
animals are used to cars and
don’t associate them with the
people inside.
If you must approach an
animal in the open, come
towards it at an angle rather
than in a straight line, move
slowly, and avoid making eye
contact. Act naturally, as if
you have absolutely no
interest in the subject that
you are stalking.
Most creatures have a
“comfort zone" and will flee if
you get past that invisible
line, but with practice you will
learn how close you can get to
different species. Often it is
more effective to stop a
distance away and wait for
the animal to approach you
as you remain motionless.
If they are used to seeing
you, and you have been
providing sources of food
and water, birds and animals
are more likely to remain in
place as you get closer. Once
you decide to take a photo,
focus on the eyes. If they are
sharp, the rest of the picture
can be a little fuzzy and still
be acceptable.
Always be aware of the
reaction of the wildlife that
you are studying and avoid
causing any stress. Don’t
block off an animal’s escape
route or come too close to
offspring if the parents seem
agitated.
