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Grassland
Management
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Grasslands Butterflies | Wildflowers |
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Wildflowers
W hat better way to
create beauty and wildlife habitat, along with contributing
to the natural heritage, than by planting native wildflowers on your property? Once
established, wildflowers enhance the attractiveness of your landscape, help control erosion, furnish food and cover for wildlife, and provide maximum
enjoyment with minimal care. An increasing number of property owners
are converting all or portions of their large, high-maintenance
lawns to plantings of wildflowers. Wildflowers can be established
either from seed in larger areas or from plants in smaller gardens. After the initial cost of
establishment, these plantings will save you money and time as you
will not have to fertilize, mow, and rake that portion of your lawn.
Also, they help to increase the value of your land. Wildflower
stands are also showing up in increasing numbers on public property,
such as highway rights-of-way, corporate parks, and various
recreational parks, because people enjoy seeing them and maintenance
costs of watering and frequent mowing are reduced.
The hardest part of raising wildflowers is successfully
establishing them. There is a common misconception that wildflowers
are easily grown from seed. On the contrary, all wildflowers require
specific soil and temperature conditions, a considerable amount of
early attention, and most of all patience. When converting grass to
wildflowers, you may have to till sod or perhaps, in the case of a
well-established lawn, remove it. Under ideal conditions, most
native wildflower plantings take at least two years to be fully
developed. Therefore, you should not expect to see blooms the first
year, or even the second year with some species. Most plantings take
three to five years to become established firmly enough to reduce
weedy competition. But the reward is well worth the work and the
wait.
Expect to see lots of butterflies, moths, bees, and hummingbirds
in the summer and many songbirds , such as goldfinches, in the
fall. Enjoy the panorama of color in spring, summer, and fall that
you created through careful planning. You can do this as you take a
well-deserved break from your previously manicured lawn
maintenance.
Where to
Plant
Wildflower plantings can be as small as a few square feet of
border around the vegetable garden or as large as several acres. You may want to consider locations
that are difficult to mow on a regular basis, such as ditches,
around trees, near woodlots, or in wet areas. Because a
wildflower stand does not require the same intensive maintenance as
a lawn, you may want to plant anywhere you are simply tired of
mowing. For best results, choose an area that is well-drained and
that has a limited population of weeds. Weed seeds lie in
undisturbed soil, and you should expect some weeds to germinate
whenever the soil is disturbed. If the area you have chosen is void
of plants, chances are it won't grow wildflowers either. Be sure to
pick a location that you can water if rainfall is inadequate during
germination and establishment. The size of the wildflower planting
should only be a major concern when time and expense are large
factors. Whether or not you have a large area or one or more small
scattered areas, you can bring color, diversity, and wildlife to your
backyard.
All plants have certain requirements for
sunlight, moisture, and nutrients. Some species require a great deal
of sunshine, at least eight hours per day, while many other species
will tolerate partial shade. Be aware that sun-loving plants placed
in shade will produce spindly plants with very few blooms. Common
planting locations include dry areas, moist to wet areas, areas of
moderate nutrition and moisture, and in or at the edges of woodlots.
However, some wildflowers will not grow well on very compacted, wet
clay or extremely droughty, infertile soils. Therefore, it is
essential that you determine the drainage and soil type of the area
where the wildflowers will be planted. A soil survey map can give
you that information and should be available at the Conservation
District office in your county. This map indicates the soil type and
the percent slope of your land, along with detailed explanations.
This information is imperative to a successful wildflower planting.
If you wish to know the pH of your soil, your county extension
office can perform a soil test to measure pH and nutrient levels. In
order to receive this information you must remove soil from the area
and take it to the extension office for analysis. For more details
about how to take a soil sample, refer to Knowing Your Soils in the Habitat Planning section.
What to
Plant
Where you decide to plant the wildflowers will determine
which species to plant. This is a wide variety of native wildflowers
that offer spectacular color and are well-suited to a number of
locations.
Wildflowers may be annuals, biennials. Annual plants are those that go
from seed to flower to seed within a single growing season. Each
year roots, stems, and leaves of the plant die and only dormant
seeds are left to regenerate the following year, most of which are
not successful. Examples of annuals that are beneficial to
butterflies, moths, bees, and hummingbirds include marigold, scarlet
petunia, tobacco flower, scarlet sage, and zinnia. These are exotic species, but they are not aggressive
and do not present threats to the success of native plants. They are
good supplements to your perennial garden and as colorful borders.
However, you should incorporate only small amounts of them to cut
down on annual costs.
Perennials, such as butterflyweed, tickseed,
purple coneflower, and shasta daisy, live for many growing seasons,
and keep their roots year-round. When started from seed, perennial
wildflowers will not bloom until the second year after planting.
After that, they will bloom every year and you will not have to
replace them as you do annuals. However, depending on soil and
climate conditions, some wildflowers act as annuals or perennials.
In combination with native perennial wildflowers, you may wish to
plant native grasses. Common types that should do well on most sites (except in
woodlots) are big bluestem, little bluestem, Indiangrass and switchgrass. These
are clump grasses that provide open spaces for
wildflowers to grow as well as good nesting, rearing, and winter cover
for wildlife. In backyard settings they add beauty and
diversity, especially in winter. For more information see the chapters
on Warm Season Grasses and Prairie Restoration in the Grassland Management
section.
Biennials need two years to complete their life cycle.
First-season growth produces a small rosette of leaves near the soil
surface. During the second year the plant grows a stem, flowers,
produces seed, and then dies. Biennials include sweet clover,
mullein, curly dock, wild mustard (yellow rocket), shepherd's purse,
black mustard, foxglove, and the thistles. Many of the species
listed here are exotics and may present problems to wildflower
plantings for the first couple years. Because they are biennials,
they should die off after the first two years and the planted
wildflowers will then be able to flourish. However, to ensure
success of your wildflowers, you can control them by spot treating
with herbicides or cutting them by
hand.
The accompanying tables of perennial, native wildflowers
should be helpful for choosing the best plants for your area. While
color and height are important, you should also consider the
blooming season. Spread your blooming season throughout the spring,
summer, and fall for the butterflies, moths, bees, and hummingbirds
that will feed on the pollen and nectar, the birds that will eat the
seeds after bloom, and your personal viewing pleasure.
Remember, patience is important as establishing a planting of
wildflowers from seed will take three to five years. For small areas
you may wish to use plants instead of seeds. You can also fill in
the area with a few annual plants until the perennials bloom. Many
wildflower suppliers offer annual mixes for this purpose. Check
these mixes carefully for weeds that may cause serious problems,
such as queen Anne's lace and chickory. However, you should expect a
weed problem the first year. Avoid the temptation to pull them
because you may damage the fragile wildflower seedlings. For more
information refer to the chapter on Wildflower Planting in this
section.
|
Common Name |
Scientific Name |
Color |
Sunlight Needs |
Height |
Blooming Season |
Blue Vervain |
Verbena hastata |
Blue/Purple |
f - p |
2 - 4 ft. |
July-September |
Boneset |
Eupatorium perfoliatum |
White |
f - p |
3 - 4 ft. |
July-August |
Cardinal flower |
Lobelia cardinalis |
Red |
f - p |
2 - 4 ft. |
July-September |
Great blue lobelia |
Lobelia siphilitica |
Blue-Violet |
f - p |
1 - 4 ft. |
August-Sept. |
Marsh marigold |
Caltha palustris |
Yellow |
f |
1 - 2 ft. |
April-June |
New England aster |
Aster novae-angliae |
Rose/Purple |
f - p - s |
1 - 4 ft. |
Sept.-October |
Prairie dock |
Silphium terebinthinaceum |
Yellow |
f |
2 - 6 ft. |
August-Sept. |
Spotted Joe-pye-weed |
Eupatorium maculatum |
Rose |
f |
2 - 6 ft. |
July-September |
Swamp milkweed |
Asclepias incarnata |
Lavender |
f |
2 - 4 ft. |
June-August |
Sweet black-eyed Susan |
Rudbeckia subtomentosa |
Yellow/Brown |
f |
2 - 4 ft. |
July-August |
Wild bergamot |
Monarda fistulosa |
Lavender |
f |
2 - 3 ft. |
June-July |
Wild iris |
Iris shrevei |
Purple |
f |
2 - 3 ft. |
June |
f = full
sun p =
partial
sun s =
shade |
Wildflowers for
Dry to Moderate Soils |
Common Name |
Scientific Name |
Color |
Sunlight Needs |
Height |
Blooming Season |
Black-eyed Susan |
Rudbeckia hirta |
Yellow/brown |
f - p |
1 - 3 ft. |
June-August |
Butterfly weed |
Asclepias tuberosa |
Orange |
f - p |
2 - 3 ft. |
July-August |
Common milkweed |
Asclepias syriaca |
Rose-purple |
f - p - s |
3 - 5 ft. |
June-August |
Gray-headed coneflower |
Ratibida pinnata |
Yellow |
f |
3 - 5 ft. |
July-September |
Hairy Beardstongue |
Penstemon hirsutus |
White/lavender |
f - p |
1 - 2 ft. |
May-July |
Lance-leaved coreopsis |
Coreopsis lanceolata |
Yellow |
f |
1 - 2 ft. |
May-August |
Leadplant |
Amorpha canescens |
Violet |
f |
2 - 4 ft. |
June-July |
Maximillian sunflower |
Helianthus maximilliani |
Yellow |
f |
2 - 5 ft. |
August-October |
Purple coneflower |
Echinacea pupurea |
Purple |
f - p |
2 - 4 ft. |
July-August |
Rattlesnake master |
Eryngium yuccifolium |
White |
f |
3 - 5 ft. |
July-September |
Rough blazingstar |
Liatrus aspera |
Purple |
f - p |
2 - 4 ft. |
July-September |
Round headed bushclover |
Lespedeza capitata |
White |
f - p |
2 - 3 ft. |
August-Sept. |
Showy goldenrod |
Solidago speciosa |
Yellow |
f |
2 - 5 ft. |
August-Sept. |
Smooth aster |
Aster laevis |
Lavender |
f |
2 - 3 ft. |
August-Sept. |
Stiff goldenrod |
Solidago rigida |
Yellow |
f |
2 - 5 ft. |
August-Sept. |
Western sunflower |
Helianthus occidentalis |
Yellow |
f |
1 - 3 ft. |
July-August |
Wild bergamot |
Monarda fistulosa |
Pink-lavender |
f |
2 - 3 ft. |
June-July |
Wild indigo |
Baptisia tinctoria |
Yellow |
f |
1 - 3 ft. |
May-Sept. |
Wild lupine |
Lupinus perennis |
Blue/lavender |
f - p - s |
1 - 2 ft. |
June-July |
Wild Senna |
Cassia hebecarpa |
Yellow |
f |
3 - 5 ft. |
July-August |
f = full
sun p =
partial
sun s =
shade |
Wildflowers for
Woodlands (shaded sites) |
Common Name |
Scientific Name |
Color |
Sunlight Needs |
Height |
Blooming Season |
Common milkweed |
Ascelepias syriaca |
Rose-purple |
f - p - s |
3 - 5 ft. |
June-August |
Dutchman's breeches |
Dicentra cucullaria |
White |
s |
5-9 in. |
April-May |
Hepatica |
Hepatica spp. |
White, to blue |
p - s |
4 - 12 in. |
March-May |
Jack-in-the-pulpit |
Arisaema triphyllum |
Green-purple |
p - s |
12 - 2 ft. |
April-June |
Large-flowered trillium |
Trillium grandiflorum |
White-pink |
p - s |
1 ft. |
April-June |
May-apple |
Podophyllum peltatum |
White |
s |
1 ft. |
April-June |
Meadow-rue |
Thalictrum dioicum |
White |
s |
1-2 ft. |
April-May |
Pale touch-me-not |
Impatiens pallida |
Yellow |
s |
3 - 5 ft. |
July-October |
Spotted touch-me-not |
Impatiens biflora or capensis |
Orange |
p - s |
2 - 5 ft. |
July-September |
Spring beauty |
Claytonia virginica |
White-pink |
p - s |
1 ft. |
March-May |
Solomon's seal |
Polygonatum biflorum |
Yellow |
p - s |
1 - 3 ft. |
April-June |
Squirrel corn |
Dicentra canadensis |
White |
s |
6-12 in. |
April-May |
Turk's-cap lily |
Lilium michiganense |
Orange |
f - p |
3 ft. |
July-August |
Trout lily |
Erythronium americanum |
Yellow |
p - s |
4-10 in. |
March-May |
Violet |
Viola spp. |
Violet - blue |
s |
4-6 in. |
April-July |
Wild bleeding heart |
Dicentra eximia |
Pink-red |
p - s |
1 ft. |
May-Aug. |
Wild columbine |
Aquilega canadensis |
Red |
f - p |
1 - 2 ft. |
May-June |
Wild ginger (low vine) |
Asarum canadense |
Purple-brown |
p - s |
1 ft. |
March-May |
For woodland/grassland
edges |
Butterfly weed |
Asciepias tuberosa |
Orange |
f - p |
2 - 3 ft. |
July-August |
False Solomon's seal |
Smilacina racemosa |
White |
p - s |
1 - 3 ft. |
April-June |
Fireweed |
Epilobium angustifolium |
Pink |
f - p |
2 - 4 ft. |
July-August |
Wild bergamot |
Monarda fistulosa |
Pink-lavender |
f |
2 - 3 ft. |
May-July |
Wild columbine |
Aquilega canadensis |
Red |
f - p |
1 - 2 ft. |
April-July |
Wild geranium |
Geranium maculatum |
Lavender |
p - s |
1 - 2 ft. |
April-May |
Wild lupine |
Lupinus perennis |
Blue/lavender |
f - p - s |
1 - 2 ft. |
June-July |
Woodland sunflower |
Helianthus divaricatus |
Yellow |
f - p |
2 - 6 ft. |
July-September |
f = full
sun p =
partial
sun s =
shade |
|