Seeding
Once
the area to be planted has been properly
prepared, seeding can commence. On small areas, less
than an acre or two, seed can be planted by hand
broadcasting. Broadcast seeding a wildflower meadow is
very similar to planting a lawn. Instead of using a
seeder, the seed can be mixed in a larger volume of a
lightweight, inert material such as sawdust, peat moss,
or vermiculite, that has been slightly dampened so that
the seed will stick to it. For a 1000 square foot
planting, one bushel basket of inert material is plenty.
For a tenth acre planting (4400 square feet), four
bushel baskets is sufficient. Mix the seed evenly into
the inert material. Take one-half of the total mix and
spread it across the area. In the event that you run out
before covering the entire area, you still have the
other half. Once you have covered the area with the
first half of the seed mix, take the second half and
spread it evenly across the same area, walking
perpendicular to your first pass. Now rake or drag the
seed in so that it is lightly covered with soil, one
eighth to one quarter inch deep. Roll the site with a
roller, or drive across it with truck or tractor tires
to firm the seed into the soil. Do not roll the site if
the soil is wet. Wait until the soil is dry to avoid
soil compaction.
For larger areas, mechanical
planters can be used. Specific models that can
successfully plant native grasses and flowers include
the Tye drill, Truax drill, John Deere Rangeland drill,
and properly outfitted Brillion seeders. It is important
to know the capabilities and limitations of each seeder
in order to select the one that will best suit your
needs. The Tye, Truax, and John Deere seeders plant the
seed in rows by opening slits in the soil into which the
seed falls. Seed drills can open up the surface soil to
seat the seed properly without working the soil just
prior to planting. The Brillion seeder broadcasts seed
rather than drilling it, creating a more natural effect
(no rows). The Brillion seeder requires a well-prepared
seedbed with a loose surface soil in order to plant the
seed properly.
Most wildflower and native grass
seeds require firm seed-to-soil contact to promote good
germination and survival. Rolling the seeded area after
planting is very important to success, especially on
light, sandy soils. This procedure firms the soil around
the seed and reduces moisture loss during the
germination period.
Hydro-seeding does
not ensure firm seed-to-soil contact. For this reason,
hydro-seeding is not recommended for wildflower and
native grass seedings.
Most wildflower seed germinates
better after exposure to a period of cold temperature,
called stratification. This is a natural protective
mechanism that prevents the seed from germinating at the
wrong time of year.
Mulching
A light
covering of clean, weed-free straw or marsh hay after
seeding helps to hold in moisture and increase
germination. This is particularly helpful on dry sandy
soils and heavy clay soils. Straw should just cover the
soil surface, but not bury it. Some soil should be
visible through the straw. Chopping and blowing the
straw onto the area is the best method, as chopped straw
is less susceptible to being blown away by the wind. On
steep slopes, hold the straw in place by staking down a
jute or plastic mesh over it. Never use field hay, as it
invariably contains innumerable weed seeds.
Watering Spring and
summer seedings will benefit greatly from regular
watering during the first four to six weeks after
planting. This encourages higher germination and
seedling survival. Water after six weeks only if
prolonged dry periods occur. Always water in the early
morning. Watering during the day is often ineffective
and wasteful. Watering in the afternoon and evening
encourages high moisture levels at the soil surface and
can lead to seedling loss due to fungal attack. Water
every other day for 15 minutes to half an hour, or just
enough to keep the soil moist. Overwatering can be
harmful, especially on heavy clay soils that retain
moisture.
Nurse
Crops such as annual rye, annual flax,
oats, etc, can help suppress weed growth without harming
desirable seedlings. When planted at the recommended
rates, these annual "nurse plants" grow rapidly without
competing with the wildflowers and grasses. Nurse crops
occupy the "ecological niche" that would otherwise be
taken by annual weeds, thus reducing weed growth. Nurse
crops generally do not re-seed themselves.
Selected Nurse Crops Seeding
Rates
|
Spring
Plantings
|
Fall Plantings
|
Oats: |
64 lbs./acre
(2 bushels/acre) |
128
lbs./acre |
Annual Rye: |
5 lbs./acre |
15
lbs./acre |
Annual Flax: |
10
lbs./acre |
N/A |
Warning! Never use
agricultural grain or perennial rye as a nurse crop.
Studies have shown that grain rye produces chemicals in
its roots that suppress the germination of other plants.
For this reason, grain rye should not be used as a nurse
crop, nor as a soil organic matter builder prior to
planting, as the chemicals are believed to remain in the
soil well after the plants have been plowed under.
Weed Control -Very
Important!
First
Year: Perennial wildflowers and grasses
grow slowly, and weeds will likely grow much faster in
the first two years. Weeds can be controlled by keeping
them mowed back to a height of 4 - 6 inches the first
year. Most native wildflowers and grasses will not grow
taller than 6 inches in their first year when seeded and
will not be damaged by mowing. Keeping weeds cut back in
the first year also prevents production of more weed
seeds that could cause problems in the second year.
Mowing back weeds on a regular basis in the first year
of establishment is one of the most critical steps in
the success of your wildflower planting. Do not fail to
keep weeds in check! A flail-type mower works best, as
it chops up the weeds so they can dry out rapidly.
Rotary mowers and sickle bar mowers are not recommended:
they do not chop up the weeds and can smother your
seedlings. String trimmers or "Weed-Eaters" are
excellent for cutting back weeds on smaller plantings of
an acre or less. These devices gently lay the cut
material down on top of the cut stems where it will dry
out rapidly and not smother your seedlings. Weeds should
be cut back in the first year when they have reached a
height of 8-12 inches. Do not allow the weeds to get
taller than this before cutting. Tall weeds will shade
out your seedlings, and the large quantities of weedy
material that will eventually have to be cut back can
smother the small seedlings. Expect to mow weeds about
once a month in the first year. The actual mowing
frequency will depend upon rainfall in any given year,
and the actual weed density and height. Nurse crops can
often reduce or eliminate the need for cutting back
weeds in the first year.
However, if weeds become thick by
mid-summer they should be cut back, along with the nurse
crop. If weeds are thin, cut when in bloom, before they
set seed.
At the end of the first season,
do not mow down the year's growth. Leave it to help
protect the young plants over the winter. The plant
litter and the snow that it catches insulates the soil
from rapid changes in soil temperatures, which can cause
plant losses due to frost heaving.
Pulling Weeds: Despite the temptation, pulling
weeds in a first year wildflower meadow seeding is not
generally recommended. Wildflower seedlings remain very
small the first year, and can be easily pulled up right
along with the weeds! If you can identify weeds when
they are still young and small, it is safe to carefully
pull them, making sure you do not disturb adjacent
wildflower or native grass seedlings. If you must pull a
large weed, hold your feet closely together on either
side of the stem at ground level, and pull straight up.
This will hold the surrounding soil and any nearby
wildflower seedlings in place as you extract the weed.
Firm any disturbed soil and seedlings by tamping with
your feet. If the soil is dry, watering after pulling
weeds is beneficial for seedlings that may have been
dislodged during the process. Beware that pulling weeds
creates soil disturbance, which exposes new weed seeds
and encourages their germination. If you wish to avoid
this, or have large well established weeds that cannot
be easily pulled, you can cut weeds off at the base
using pruning shears. Remove any seed bearing weeds from
the site immediately after cutting.
Second Year: In spring of the second year, the
planting should be mowed right to the ground, and the
cuttings raked off, if possible. At this stage, the
plants are still small and have not yet gained full
control of the soil environment. Burning in spring of
the second year often encourages germination of dormant
wildflower seed, but also exposes the surface soil,
which can cause increased weed growth. Mowing tends to
facilitate germination of dormant seed and enhance the
growth of wildflowers, without potentially increasing
weeds.
If weeds remain a problem in the
second year, they may have to be mowed in late spring or
early summer. Biennial weeds can be very competitive in
the second year. Mowing them back to about one foot when
they are in full bloom will kill them or set them back
severely, with minimal damage to your plants.
A biennial weed of particular
concern is Sweet Clover (Melilotus spp.). This must be
controlled because the seeds of Sweet Clover are
stimulated to germinate by fire and can become a
long-term management problem if not handled at the
outset. Mowing in mid-summer of the second year when in
full bloom will usually kill sweet clover plants and
prevent them from making seed to re-infest your
planting. If it reappears in the third year, it will
likely be on a limited basis and can be hand-pulled. Do
not let sweet clover make seeds, as it can be a most
pernicious weed.
Long Term
Management:
Burning or Mowing your wildflower meadow on a
regular basis helps ensure continued success. Burning or
mowing is usually, but not always, conducted in
mid-spring. The best time to burn is generally when the
buds of the Sugar Maple tree are just opening. Burning
removes the accumulated plant litter from the previous
year's growth and exposes the soil surface to the
warming rays of the sun. Most wildflowers are "warm
season" plants and respond favorably to warm soil
temperatures. Burning encourages earlier soil warming
and typically increases growth, flowering, and seed
production of the native flowers and grasses. A
mid-spring fire also sets back undesirable "cool-season"
weeds such as quackgrass, bluegrass, brome grass,
clover, etc., which come up earlier and get a head-start
on the wildflowers. By waiting until these undesirable
plants have initiated spring growth before burning, the
fire will destroy their new growth and set them back,
favoring the warm season wildflowers, most of which
remain dormant under the soil and thus unharmed by the
fire.
Timing is critical to success
with burning. It is generally recommended to burn in
mid-spring rather than early spring. However, this does
not apply to dry meadows with an abundance of
early-blooming flowers that would be harmed by a mid-or
late-spring fire. Dry meadows should be burned in late
fall after most of the native plants have gone dormant,
but the non-native cool season grasses are still active.
Burning in very early spring can also be done
successfully on dry meadows.
In the event that burning your
wildflower meadow is not an option, mowing can be
substituted. Although not quite as effective as burning,
mowing and raking off the mowed material is a good
substitute. Mowing simulates the effect of fire by
removing the previous year's vegetation, and cuts back
cool season weeds if mowed in mid-spring. It is
important to remove the mowed material to expose the
soil surface and encourage soil warming. Do not mow or
burn after new plant growth has reached 1 foot or
taller, as this could damage some of your desirable
plants. Many ground-nesting birds also build their nests
in late spring and mowing or burning at this time could
destroy some nests. Mid-spring burning or mowing
maintenance leaves sufficient time for birds to re-nest
and successfully raise its young.
Burning can usually be instituted
at the beginning of the third growing season. At this
point, sufficient combustible plant matter is often
available from the previous year's growth to support a
fire. If there is insufficient fuel to carry a fire,
mowing and raking off the material should be
substituted.
Frequency of Mowing or
Burning: Most wildflower meadows will
respond positively to periodic burning or mowing.
Research indicates that annual spring burning tends to
favour the native grasses and legumes over most of the
other flowers. Studies have shown that when one-half of
the same planting was burned in mid-spring and the other
was left unburned, the appearance of the plantings were
markedly different. In fall, the burned half was
dominated by native grasses, while the unburned half
exhibited fewer grasses, but more asters and goldenrods.
The structure of the plantings, in terms of the actual
numbers of individual flowers and grasses, was very
similar between the plantings: however, the burning had
favored the development of the grasses in that year,
while the lack of burning had favoured the late-blooming
wildflowers.
Rotational burning of one-half or
one-third of your meadow on an annual basis is generally
recommended, for a variety of reasons. First, the same
planting, with different management regimes, can present
very different aspects in the same year, increasing the
landscape interest and diversity of habitat for
wildlife. Second, leaving unburned sections preserves
overwintering butterfly, moth, and other invertebrate
pupae and eggs, that would otherwise be destroyed by
burning. Third, variation in management prevents any
given species from gaining overall dominance in the
planting, thus maximizing species diversity. If mowing
management is to be used instead of burning, rotational
mowing is recommended for the same reasons.
Once your wildflower meadow has
become well-established, it will return year after year
with just a minimum of maintenance. Following these
guidelines will ensure that your planting will have the
very best chance of success, while providing you with a
maximum of landscape interest throughout the
year! |